Two of my favorites from November 6, 2023
I’ve written about my experience visiting a few different wine salons in Paris, but this week I had the opportunity to visit a more intimate wine tasting event with select, artisan producers thanks to the suggestion of a good friend, colleague and fellow Aggie. The salon took place at the Grand Cœur restaurant in the Marais neighborhood, located in a courtyard tucked away from the bustling rue du Temple.
Reserved for professionals in the wine industry, the salon featured a sampling of the terroirs of France with a selection of 20 total vignerons, ranging from Champagne and la Loire to Jura and Bourgogne. It was a pleasantly approachable experience, offering a nice change of pace from the more widely-known events such as the Grand Tasting of Paris or the gargantuan Salon d’Agriculture. The tasting took place partly outside on the restaurant’s courtyard, covered by a delicate white tent with cozy seating and a plancha where various meats grilled throughout the afternoon.
A portion of the producers were inside the restaurant where beautiful natural lighting and enough room to comfortably peruse offered a lovely tasting experience, where discussions with the winemakers were not only welcome but also feasible.
My friend and I began our dégustation journey with Champagne De Sousa, which was thoughtfully presented by winemaker Valentin De Sousa. A family affair, Valentin and his two sisters take charge concerning all winery functions, continuing the patrimony of the house that was started by their family in the early 1950’s. Valentin handles the winemaking, and his sisters Charlotte and Julie manage the marketing and viticulture, respectively.
The Demeter and organic-certified house presented four cuvées, each beautifully expressive and discrete from one another. Vinified in oak, the wines present an elegant structure that is complemented with gentle bubbles that allow for perception and appreciation of the wine’s complex flavor profile.
We tasted (in order):
“Chemins des Terroirs” (pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot meunier)
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Reserve (100% Chardonnay, my favorite)
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs “Caudalies”
“Cuvée des Caudalies” Grand Cru millésime 2013
Interestingly enough, the house also makes (from its Grand Cru grapes) the cuvée “Umami” designed to capture the essence of this elusive fifth flavor, showcasing “length; depth ; velvety; minerality and palatability.”
Although Umami was not included in the lineup presented on Monday, I look forward to one day trying this cuvée, hopefully accompanied by a selection of omakase.
My friend works for Becky Wasserman & Co., the agency founded by and synonymous with the American icon who championed Burgundy and the changed wine industry itself. A few of the producers that the agency represents were present at the salon, one of which being Etienne Bodet, esteemed producer in Saumur and fifth-generation vigneron. Etienne’s “Clos Durandière” is well-known by amateurs and delivered a powerful punch of flavorful Cabernet Franc softened by velvety tannins. Etienne shies away from using SO2, but as he specifies it’s not because he’s eager to be part of a certain trendy movement, but because the sulfur threatens the velvety and polished tannins that he is after and so beautifully achieves.
Completely separate from Etienne’s “baby” the Clos Durandière, his second project is his Crémant de Loire that he produces with his wife under the Bodet-Herold label. He has produced a few different versions of the Crémant and presented the “Les Greffiers” at the salon. Refined, delicate and light, this Chenin blanc bubbly is a testament to Etienne’s formation in champagne winemaking at the University of Reims Champagne-Ardenne, and apprenticeship with various producers in the region. Etienne said he appreciated his family’s winemaking roots in the Loire, but knew that he always wanted to start his own project. An absolute steal for 19,90€, Bodet-Herold bubblies would impress even the most particularly picky sparkling drinker.
The Younger Wine 