Every arrondissement, or district, of Paris has its charm. In the 7th you can find the Eiffel Tower and chic shopping streets. In the 18th, the culturally historic Montmartre and its famous Moulin Rouge. And of course, the arrondissements are infamously numbered in a spiral formation, as if to purposefully confuse us.
The 11th arrondissement, while lesser known to the average tourist, is one of my favorites. I’m a bit biased because I lived there last year, but this neighborhood is loaded with plenty of amazing restaurants featuring all types of cuisines, bars, amazing wine bars, and even the Canal Saint Martin. This neighborhood is also known for a big nightlife scene, especially around the Bastille area.
Here is the perfect itinerary to tackle the 11th arrondissement of Paris and really feel like a local, inspired by how I used to spend my time in this arrondissement.
Start off strolling along Canal Saint Martin
The early morning exercise is of course optional, but it makes indulging in the Parisian pastries so much more worth it. Besides, the Canal is such a beautiful part of the 11th arrondissement that is much quieter than the Seine, especially in the morning, which makes running along it a calming experience.
Indulge in the boulangerie Les Saveurs de Parmentier
This is one of my favorite boulangeries in Paris. There are a few locations of this boulangerie throughout the city. I’ve tested them all but Parmentier is by far my favorite. The tradition is delicious, and of course as are all of their tartes and pastries – the perfect buttery treats to start the day.
Walk to the Marais
Technically we are migrating into another arrondissement now, but visiting Le Marais is a must when you’re in the 11th, given that the two are neighbors (yes, the 3rd is next to the 11th). Le Marais is famous for its countless boutiques, many of which even stay open on Sundays when most stores in Paris are closed. It is also the oldest neighborhood of Paris and includes the beautiful Place des Vosges, where many French aristocrats and even Victor Hugo lived.
In Le Marais there is plenty to do – this one neighborhood is packed with shops, great restaurants, parks, and several museums and art galleries. You could easily spend one whole day just exploring Le Marais and it’s winding, narrow streets.
Relax at Square Maurice Gardette
This small park is the perfect place to rest after spending midday walking around Le Marais. It’s much smaller than the more famous Cemetière Père Lachaise, which is also lovely to visit, but farther from Le Marais and more of a tourist destination. At Square Maurice Gardette, you can sit and enjoy the beautiful greenery and really feel like a local amongst the families and well, locals.
Have an apéritif at 11ème Domaine wine bar
It doesn’t get more neighborhood than this spot. My favorite wine bar, 11ème Domaine, is frequented by locals and tourists alike and for good reason. It’s a cozy neighborhood spot featuring French wines and the best French cheeses, with a friendly come-as-you-are atmosphere. I have dragged pretty much everyone I know to this spot. There is no wine list, but an ever-evolving selection of amazing wines made mostly by small, independent and mainly organic producers. With this model guests have an opportunity to try the wines before they decide on a glass, allowing you to discover something new each time you visit. Owner Ramez has run the 11ème Domaine for about 8 years now, turning it into a neighborhood staple enjoyed by locals and lucky tourists alike. Make sure you reserve!
Dine at Le Dauphin
Located on rue Parmentier, this spot has been on my to-try list for almost a year. I used to walk by every day on my way to and from school, and in the evening it always had a good vibe. A friend of mine and I finally got to try it and it did not disappoint. Well worth the wait! They even brought us a side of trout roe with fresh butter because they were out of the dish we wanted that came with the roe. For the wine we chose the 2021 Jean Foillard Fleurie (one of my favorite Beaujolais appellations) and it blew me away. Stunning, elegant and vibrant, a beautiful balance of fruit and floral tones with notes of bay leaf and a dash of white pepper. Foillard is based in the Morgon of Beaujolais and is known for crafting beautifully balanced wines in the natural method. With delicious food and wine, and an incredibly friendly staff, Le Dauphin was one of my favorite dinner experiences in Paris so far.
End the night with a Negroni and a boogie at Bambino
Another great wine bar in the 11th, Bambino, turns into a dimly-lit disco-funk club as the night goes on. With DJ’s who mix only vinyls, this place transports you back in time to another era. Come for the Negronis and stay for the boogie.
The Younger Wine 